February 2019 Many people will say that if you use the lengthwise grain, your quilts will wear out on the bias edge, but this is not the case. Lengthwise grain The fabric threads run parallel to the selvage edges. As mentioned above, this is depicted by a. As is true for all pattern cutting methods, it is important to look at the grainline on the sewing pattern before determining whether to fold the pattern crosswise or lengthwise. Pull away any loose threads and this will give you a straight grain line across. What are Grain Lines of Fabric? November 2017 Fabric is basically a woven product created from weaving thread fibers on a loom. Look at the fabric cutting diagram and find the one for the view you’re making. This tightly bound edge is called the selvage edge. In other cases, patterns may be cut on the crosswise grain if the pattern or weave perpendicular to the selvage edge is more desirable for the design at hand. Sometimes (although not always) the selvage edge can actually give you a hint as to what side was intended as the face at the manufacturing level. September 2017 It is good not to use the selvage edge in your sewing because it is different than the rest of the fabric. With that in mind, let’s look at fabric grain. April 2017 Next, measure the same length from the selvage edge to the other end of the grainline (arrow) and place a second pin through both layers to secure. You may Print this page as it is ...OR... There will be times you want to cut and sew along the bias. Fabrics that are cut with edges parallel to either the crosswise or lengthwise straight grain are less likely to stretch out of shape than pieces with edges cut along the stretchy bias. Straight or Lengthwise Grain — straight grain runs parallel to the fabric selvage. It’s important when sewing, just like woodgrain is important when building. Inspiration That's why it can be better to cut long borders on the lengthwise grain. May 2018 A bias grainline can sometimes be a bit confusing for. Fabric cut from the lengthwise grain has no stretching or easing and makes the borders lay flat. Now do the same horizontally on the fabric, perpendicular to the selvage edge. Ideas & Inspiration In the weaving process, shorter threads are woven over and under across these long threads, thus forming a woven fabric. This is because it is the more structured, “skeleton” of the weave. The interwoven straight grain threads provide extra support. October 2019 google_ad_slot = "0413378880"; The lengthwise grain runs the length of the fabric. BJ. If you cut strips along the vertical length of the fabric, you waste little to no fabric. Hope this helps! The technical name for these is “warp threads.” Crosswise Grain: Crosswise grain refers to the threads that run parallel to the cut edge of the fabric (the width) and so are perpendicular to the selvage. Some projects require cutting on the bias. The reason why is because the lengthwise grain is less stretchy then the crosswise grain. Bias grain is the thread line that is at a forty-five-degree angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric as it is on the bolt. The diagonal grain of the fabric produces the maximum stretch of the fabric. ​At the fabric store, the length of the fabric (in yards) is measured along the selvage edge and cut perpendicular to it (cut edge). Once you've determined the grainline of your sewing pattern. This example shows the neck binding for the 'Easy Fit Top' which, when cut, on the bias as shown, will have some stretch to ease sewing around the curved edge of the … Thank you very much This is important in achieving the proper cut and fit and avoiding off-grain  comfort issues in the final garment. Fabric should be … If one direction stretches more than the other, that is the crosswise grain. This difference in drape can negatively affect the fit and comfort of a clothing item once sewn. Vise versa, in the case of a pattern piece that has symmetric sides separated by a straight line (usually center front or center back), cutting on fold can be quite convenient. Go back to How to Make a Quilt / Comforter Main Project Page. April 2018 We’re about to spend a bit of time folding our fabric, it’s a real pain if you find out it was supposed to be folded differently after all that work! Just remember, cutting lengthwise grain side borders takes more fabric.You will need to make the yardage calculations yourself, unless otherwise noted on the quilt pattern envelope. /* 120x600, Image Right Column */ Vise versa, the lengthwise grainline extends from the top of the clothing item to the hem, parallel to the center back and center front. As opposed to lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain of fabric is located perpendicular to the selvage edge. Can I use all of these in making a module for my students...Including the images. A lengthwise grainline is also (almost always). Usually you will want to cut it off or avoid laying your pattern over that edge. Hi Julia! can all seem like a big blur for someone who is just starting out. August 2016, All This direction is very firm and has no give, or stretch. Important! If you pull at the fabric along the crosswise grain, you will notice that it will move quite a bit more and if you pull too hard, you can even alter the fabric a bit. Absolutely- a crosswise grain will definitely work for your project! August 2019 You will notice that while the grainline on the pattern remains parallel to the selvage edge, the direction of the garment pattern itself is different than that of a lengthwise grain placement- The pattern piece is perpendicular in relation to the selvage edge. This fabric binding is very stable and has the least amount of stretch of the three types. For borders to have the lengthwise fabric grain running from top to bottom on all sides: Cut the long left and right borders of your quilt on the lengthwise grain. google_ad_height = 600; Generally, in patterns for woven fabrics, you want the straight grain to run vertically down the body, so lay your pattern pieces that way. Thank you for your kind words! Katia Fabrics; DIY - TIPS, Fabrics & Sewing Patterns; No Comments ; It’s back to school time again and we’re sharing a series of posts all about basic sewing concepts. These projects are for your personal use only and may not be reprinted or copied. ​Although most pattern pieces are cut on the lengthwise grain, some sewing patterns require to be cut crosswise on fabric. Below, we'll walk you through 4 basic ways to align and cut your sewing patterns according to fabric grain but first, lets start with the basic understanding of grainline and selvage edge- the two most important elements used in the fabric cutting process. Your fabric has names for these two directions; lengthwise grain and crosswise grain. When you cut fabric parallel to the selvage, you’re cutting on the straight grain. You see, each pieces of fabric is made of thousands of threads. Position the cut edges to your left and right. I have become your fan! If cutting the sewing pattern on the crosswise grain allows for more stretch in the finished garment, then a crosswise cut  may end up being the more appropriate choice.